Beaver Valley: a Retrospective

Late last year (November 2016) was the first time I experienced climbing in Beaver Valley. I had done some Ontario climbing (Lion's Head, Nemo, Rattlesnake) but most of my outdoor sport took place in Kentucky or Spain. However, Adeline, Kevin, and I decided to take a week and try out the various crags surrounding Collingwood. I was completely blown away by a number of things:

The Guidebook(s)

•Since these have come out, access has never been easier. You don't have to "know a guy", you can head out on your own!

The Approach

•With detailed mapping, the approaches to these crags were amazing! The hike into The Swamp specifically was beautiful, but you can't beat Metcalfe for ease (six minute walk from the car park).

The Grades

•We did Metcalfe, The Swamp, and Devil's Glen. All of these crags had an amazing grade range for enjoyable warm-ups, challenging mid grade climbs, and terrifying but amazing future projects.

The Rock

•I was a little disappointed at Nemo, but the rock in Beaver Valley's crags was just astounding and not too polished. I was elated with the texture and feel, especially in The Swamp.

Things to Consider for Your Trip:

•Accommodations-We saw a lot of expensive AirBnB's and hotels, but the Craigleith provincial park provided an affordable campsite. Admittedly, it was cold at night on the bay in November, but when summer comes around I'd gladly repeat.

•Day trips- Coming from Toronto, if you left early enough you could absolutely do a weekend day trip up to Metcalfe or Old Baldy. It's remarkably doable.

•Weather- Different days, different needs. If it's too hot for Metcalfe, hit up The Swamp to stay cool. Look out for the blackflies in the early season, though. Also, as the name implies, it can get wet. We found that on our chilly days the sun at Metcalfe saved our bacon.

•Be cautious going from gym to crag- Almost goes without saying, but with the ease of guidebook access and the increased popularity of the sport on the whole, there will be a lot of people making that spectacular transition from gym climbing to the outdoors this season. Be safe, be smart. A lot of things can go wrong, always do your checks and when in doubt err on the side of caution. It's okay to leave a scary route incomplete, or to ask for help.

Really, I am still stunned at how magnificent Ontario climbing has revealed itself to be. We have an amazing number of quality crags relatively next door. Obviously Lion's Head has world-class splendor, but Beaver Valley is incredibly enjoyable, and accessible. My absolute favourite for this trip was The Swamp, as I really liked the vert wall, the cool scenery, and the height (makes it possible to cram in more climbs). Get ready for this season, it can't open soon enough!

"Wonder not, Sovran mistress, if perhaps thou canst, who art sole wonder!"-Milton